Health Information
Preservation Pointers
If you would like to learn more about preservation and conservation, check out Barbara Appelbaum's Guide to Environmental Protection of Collections (Madison, CT: Sound View Press, 1991).
Problems
Light
It causes inks to fade or discolor and paper to become yellowed and brittle.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
High temperatures allow acids and other chemicals found in paper to interact and damage it. If humidity is too low, paper becomes brittle. If humidity is too high, paper swells.
Inherent Vice
The chemical composition of the wood pulp in paper can cause it to be brittle. Acids and other chemicals in binding, sewing thread, and ink may deteriorate and attack books.
Biological Dangers
These come in the form of mold, insects, birds, rodents, and household pets. Pets, insects, and the like are apt to chew or eat paper. Birds and rodents leave excrement. Mold attacks, breaking down the paper's bond and discoloring it.
Improper Care and Handling
Misuse is when books are used for something other than reading, such as a prop. Mishandling comes from improper storage, retrieving books incorrectly, and handling that allows dirt, oils from fingers, food crumbs and other contaminates to come in contact with the pages. Mutilation occurs when a person makes marks or tears out pages and illustrations. Mutilation includes willful vandalism, as well as bookplates and inscriptions.
Pointers
Light
Keep books and shelving out of direct sunlight. Put them away in darker environments when not in use. Keep items in low light areas when on display. Use a UV filter on windows in display rooms.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Keep the storage environment at a stable temperature and RH level set between 60° F and 70° F and between 40% and 50% RH. Make your best efforts to keep the temperature and humidity from fluctuating more than a few degrees from your targeted settings.
Know your collection's make up
Learn what kind of material is in your library, how to care for it, and what to look for to determine rehabilitation needs. There are many publications and other guides that will help you preserve your books.
Protect against biological hazards
Do not store your items in damp basements or places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation. Keep books out of the reach of pets.
Proper Care and Handling
Never pull the top of the spine to take a book off the shelf. Do not write upon, mark on, or apply bookplates to rare or valuable books, as this lessens their value. Avoid damaging the spine when making photocopies or viewing. Keep hands clean when viewing or wear white cotton gloves. Secure books in locked rooms or shelves to prevent theft and vandalism.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. It is best to keep your books in a room with a sprinkler system or other fire suppression. Wet is much better than burnt.
In case of flooding or water damage, consult a book conservator for rare books. For minimally damp books, air dry them by fanning the books out on a dry surface so air flows through the pages. You may want to interleave a few paper towels to soak up the moisture, then close the book and place it on its side. If you use the interleaving method, change the paper towels regularly. Books or magazines with glossy or coated paper cannot be saved using this method. If air drying is not an option you may want to consider freezing books in a frost free freezer until a conservator can be sought.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a library or historical society. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Fabric
Problems
Light
Fabric is very reactive to light. High light levels cause fibers to become weak, creating tears and holes. Dyes will fade in even low levels of light, weakening fabric further.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Low RH levels will cause fabrics to become brittle, while high levels of RH will cause mold to grow. High temperatures combined with light exposure will speed the reaction of fading.
Inherent Vice
Cellulose fibers (linen, cotton) have a different chemistry from protein fibers (wool, silk). Therefore, there will be variations in dyes used, as well as differences in the fabric's natural reaction to light, temperature, and humidity. Also, clothing may have been exposed to sweat or food stains that, while not inherent to the fabric, will weaken fabric over time.
Biological Dangers
Fabrics are susceptible to mold and insects. Moths and other insects are attracted to dirty textiles.
Improper Care and Handling
Older textiles can be very fragile and should be handled with care. Fibers are weakened near folds, creases, and seams. Fabric should not be left folded in one particular way for long periods of time.
Pointers
Light
Silks are the most sensitive fabrics to light and wool is the least. Regardless, light levels should be as low as possible when displaying textiles. Fabrics should be stored in closed containers.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
As much as possible, fabric and clothing should be stored at a steady RH of 50%. Temperatures should be kept cool between 65º F and 55º F.
Know your collection's make up
If fabric is not labeled, consult a conservator to find what fibers were used to create your piece. Natural fibers and synthetics will react differently.
Protect against biological hazards
Low RH levels should mitigate any potential problems with mold or insects. Keep fabrics in cold storage inside closed, but not air tight, containers. Keep items dry by not storing them in damp basements or places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation.
Proper Care and Handling
Washing, mending, or lining older fabrics can cause serious damage and should be undertaken by a conservator. Textiles should be stored flat, whenever possible, with acid free paper stuffed into folded areas to create a gentle support. Large textiles, rugs, etc. can be rolled with a lining of acid free paper.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. It is best to keep your textiles in a room with a sprinkler system or other fire suppression. Wet is much better than burnt. Do not place boxes or other storage containers directly on the floor.
In case of water damage, lay textiles flat. Do not stack textiles on top of each other as dye may bleed. Shape the textile while damp so that it can retain its original shape. Blot surface with towels and allow it to dry in a room with regulated RH.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a museum or similar institution. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Preservation Problems and Pointers: Fur and Leather
Problems
LightLight will fade leathers and break down the composition of furs, causing hair loss. Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Moderately high temperatures and RH causes tanned leather to become soft and felt-like in texture, and will eventually lead to crumbling. This condition often produces a red powder, hence its name — 'red rot'. If exposed to extremely high temperatures and RH, leather will stiffen and furs will lose hairs. Inherent Vice
Tanned leathers, such as books and shoes, are acidic due to their preparations. Over time, the acids will deteriorate the leather, leading to 'red rot'. Semi-tanned leathers, such as parchment and buckskin, are much less acidic. Biological Dangers
Leathers and furs attract pests and molds if stored in high temperatures and humidity levels. Improper Care and Handling
Leathers and furs are most vulnerable where they bend or flex. While new leather can sustain handling in these areas, old leathers and furs can not. Never leave leather or furs rolled or crumpled, as they may not recover their shape.
Pointers
Light
Keep light levels low if displaying leather or fur. In storage, keep these materials in closed containers. Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
For fur and leather, colder temperatures are best. Temperatures should range between 50º F to 55º F. Relative humidity should be kept between 50% and 55%. Know your collection's make up
Discover how your leather goods were made. Check with a conservator if you are experiencing 'red rot' and separate those items from the rest of your collection. Protect against biological hazards
Keep your leather and furs in cold storage inside closed, but not air tight, containers. Do not store your items in damp basements or places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation. Proper Care and Handling
Leather and fur are easily distorted and torn if hung for a long time. This is true even for pieces that seem to be able to take such treatment. Furs and leathers should be stored flat with acid free paper stuffed into folded areas to create a gentle support. Do not use oils, lotions, or similar treatments on old leathers to create suppleness. These treatments can stain and ruin leather goods. Seek a conservator for advice on this kind of treatment.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. Do not place boxes or other storage containers directly on the floor. Water will distort and ruin leathers and furs. In case of flooding or water damage, consult a conservator. For minimally damp leathers, air dry them flat at a natural RH and temperature level. If mold growth occurs, leathers must be dry before spores can be brushed off. Seek professional advice if leather begins to stiffen. Do not apply oils, lotions, or similar treatments, as they may worsen the problem. For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact. You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a museum or similar institution. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Light
Ivory and bone are not reactive to light and may be exposed for long periods of time without incurring damage.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Ivory and bone expand and contract with changes in RH. Large fluctuations can cause cracking, flaking, or warping. High temperatures can cause decomposition of objects and should be avoided.
Inherent Vice
Ivory can be more or less fragile depending on which part of the elephant's tusk it was carved from. Objects made from the inner core of the tusk, or from the whole tusk, are inherently weak and more likely to deteriorate if exposed to fluctuations in RH. Objects made from the outer layers are stronger.
Biological Dangers
Mold can grow on ivory and bone if they are exposed to very damp conditions. Mold will disfigure and stain objects.
Improper Care and Handling
Ivory and bone are very porous and, if carved, can be fragile. Ivory and bone stain easily and so should never be stored with dyed fabric or metals, which could corrode.
Pointers
Light
Although light levels are not an issue for bone and ivory, displaying near hot light bulbs or in direct sunlight may create high temperatures, which are a problem.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
As much as possible, ivory and bone should be stored at a steady RH of 50%. Temperatures should be kept moderate, between 70º F and 60º F.
Know your collection's make up
Be aware that there are many imitation ivories on the market. Many nineteenth and twentieth century pieces were made with cellulose nitrate to reduce cost and alleviate storage problems. Have your objects inspected carefully.
Protect against biological hazards
Low RH levels should mitigate any potential problems with mold. Do not store your items in damp basements or places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation.
Proper Care and Handling
Ivory and bone are very fragile and should be handled carefully. Never soak them or cover them with oils, waxes, or varnishes. Make sure that pieces are not encased in tight or enclosed objects. Ivory and bone's natural tendency to expand and contract can create pressure against mounts and cause breakage.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. Damp or wet objects should be pat-dried immediately with a soft absorbent cloth and placed in a room with regulated RH. Do not rub objects vigorously, as the cloth may catch and break sections already beginning to flake or warp. If objects have paint on them, lay them paint-side up on absorbent cloth or paper and allow to air dry in a room with regulated RH. Do not touch the painted surface, as it may flake off.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a museum or similar institution. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Light
Metals and coins are not reactive to light and may be exposed for long periods of time without incurring damage.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
High levels of RH combined with oxygen will corrode metals. Depending on the metal, corrosion can appear black, green, white, or red in color and may look waxy, powdery, or simply discolor an object.
Inherent Vice
The exact composition of some metal objects, especially coins, can be hard to determine. Knowing a metal's make-up would help determine the kinds of corrosion to watch for.
Biological Dangers
Metals and coins do not attract biological hazards such as mold, insects, or other pests.
Improper Care and Handling
Copper and bronze materials create a protective coating of corrosion on them, sometimes called a 'patina'. In many older pieces, patinas are considered a valuable part of the piece. Polishing off the patina would cause a large drop in the object's value. Polishing itself may be dangerous, as it literally strips a layer of metal, revealing a cleaner looking finish. If not applied and removed properly, polish can remain in crevices of objects, causing more corrosion. Wrapping silverware or coins in kitchen plastic wrap is not recommended, as the chloride used in manufacture will damage objects.
Pointers
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Metals and coins can be stored and displayed at temperatures as high as 80º F without problems. It is very important, however, that RH remain low. RH between 30% or 40% is ideal. RH higher than 60% will cause corrosion.
Know your collection's make up
Pieces made up of more than one metal should be determined. The weaker metal will corrode first (such as iron in a copper alloy), causing the more stable metal to begin corroding. Metals treated with varnish, shellac, linseed oil, or tinted wax to stop corrosion should be examined. Over time cracks in such coatings, uneven applications, or scratches will lead to corrosion on exposed areas.
Proper Care and Handling
When touching metal objects be sure to handle them with gloves or cloth to protect the metal from fingerprints. Perspiration from skin is a source of moisture and acid that could promote corrosion. If attempting to store polished metals, wrap them in Pacific cloth, a flannel fabric impregnated with corrosion resistant chemicals. Silverware can be stored in plastic bags or wrap made of polyethylene to prevent corrosion. This material can be found in hobby shops. If considering a coating to protect metals, purchase clear microcrystalline wax. Used in a thin layer, this wax can prevent some corrosion. However, work should be inspected often to ensure no spot was missed.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. In case of flooding, handle metal objects with gloves. Use a soft sponge to rinse the surface of objects and to rub off any debris. Never scrub metal objects with stiff or coarse materials. Blot surface with towels and allow item to air dry in a room with low humidity, if possible. If object has a patina or corrosion causing flaking, do not clean surface. Simply air dry leaving areas of most corrosion face up.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a museum or similar institution. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Light
Causes colors to fade and paper to become yellowed and brittle.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
High temperatures allow acids and other chemicals found in the paper to interact and damage the item. If humidity is too low, paper becomes brittle. If humidity is too high, paper swells.
Inherent Vice
The chemical composition of the wood pulp in paper can cause it to be brittle. Staples and other metal objects can rust and eat through paper. Other media and materials, such as tape or glue, can degenerate over time and destroy and bleed through adjoining paper.
Biological Dangers
These come in the form of mold, insects, birds, and rodents. Insects and rodents consume or chew paper. Excrement, such as fly specks, is acidic and will eat though paper. Mold attacks paper, breaking down bonds and discoloring it.
Improper care and handling
Glue from labels attached directly to the underside of an illustration or drawing can bleed through. The same is true for inscriptions written in ball point pen. Papers stored in acidic containers or folders will take on acidity from those boxes and begin to discolor and become brittle. Improper handling may also increase the risk of ripping, tearing, and unnecessary creases and folds.
Pointers
Light
Keep papers and drawings out of direct sunlight. Put them away in darker environments when not in use. Keep items in low light areas when on display. Use a UV filter on windows in display rooms. You may want to invest in light monitoring equipment to protect your art investments.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Keep the storage environment at a stable temperature and RH level set between 60° F and 70° F and between 40% and 50% RH. Make your best efforts to keep the temperature and humidity from fluctuating more than a few degrees from your targeted settings.
Be aware of your collection's make up
Learn about how your paper was made. Look for papers in your collection that are thin or brittle and store them separately. Identify what inks or papers are acidic or corrosive. You can have a conservator de-acidify them. However, the de-acidification process does not strengthen paper, it only slows down degradation.
Protect against biological hazards
Do not store your items in places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation.
Proper Care and Handling
Display objects behind ultraviolet Plexiglas® to keep off dirt and debris. If not framed, store flat in acid free boxes. For a large collection of papers, store in acid free folders — tightly enough that folders do not bow, but not so tight that papers are pressed together. If you must make an inscription, use a pencil.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. It is best to keep your papers and art works in a room with a sprinkler system or other fire suppression. Wet is much better than burnt.
If you experience flooding or water damage to drawings, consult an art conservator. For minimally damp items, air dry them flat with the drawing side up. If you can, you may want to air dry individual pages of papers by drying them on top of an interior clothes line strung close together in a clean, dry room. Use fans to keep the air moving but not blowing in the direction of the papers.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection or if you believe your papers have potential historical research value, you may want to consider what will happen once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping your collection.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wide audience and donate it to a library or historical society. Discuss your intentions to leave your papers with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Light
Stones are not reactive to light and may be exposed for long periods of time without incurring damage. Most gems are also non-reactive in normal light levels.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Some stones have soluble salts in their composition. When RH levels are high, these salts can dissolve, causing cracking. Some minerals can also be highly susceptible to changes in RH.
Inherent Vice
Stones and gems can have inherent cracks or imperfections that may or may not mean trouble in the long run. Professional inspection should be sought.
Biological Dangers
Stones can support growth of mold and plant life such as lichen. Environmental pollutants can attack calcium carbonate stones like marble or limestone, eroding and pitting their surfaces. Stones left outside are susceptible to damage since, over time, water will erode stone.
Improper Care and Handling
Even small stone pieces can be surprisingly heavy and handling them may be difficult. Most damage to stone comes from dropping or mishandling of objects. Porous, light colored stones, such as marble, are subject to staining and dirt. If housed with corroding metals, these stones can be irreparably damaged.
Pointers
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Lower levels of RH, 40% to 50%, are desirable and rapid changes in RH should be avoided.
Know your collection's make up
Have gems and stones inspected by an expert to determine if there are any inherent problems. Be aware that there are many fake gems and stones on the market that can fool the untrained eye.
Protect against biological hazards
Low RH levels should mitigate any potential problems with plant life. Be aware that stone pieces left outside can not be protected against environmental pollutants.
Proper Care and Handling
Stone should be handled carefully. It is always safer to move objects with two people rather than one. Be honest about the weight of stone objects and ask for help if you need it. Do not use lemon juice, vinegar, or acidic soaps to clean marble or limestone. If using soap to clean, rinse object completely and use plenty of water as residues may be harmful. Gems should be cleaned in professional solutions or mild detergent and water. Do not use polishes to clean jewelry. If not applied and removed properly, polish can remain in crevices of objects, causing more corrosion of the metal and damaging certain gems.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. Smooth stones that are damp or wet should be pat-dried with a soft absorbent cloth and allowed to air dry. If surface is rough, uneven, or has an applied finish, do not blot. Simply allow to air dry on a clean towel. Some minerals may have other needs, but in general gems can be dried with an absorbent cloth.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years, you may want to consider what will happen to it once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping the collection intact.
You may want to decide to share your collection with a wider audience and donate the collection to a museum or similar institution. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Light
Light causes colors to fade, resulting in loss of details. The image will appear to be greenish, green-blue, red, or yellow.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
If humidity is too low, the paper base of a photograph may become brittle and the top emulsion layer will crack. High humidity causes the paper base to swell. If photographs begin to stick together, the humidity is too high. Humidity can also cause color film to fade. In hot and humid climates, acetate film can fall victim to 'vinegar syndrome,' where the film gives off a strong vinegar smell. This smell announces the presence of acetic acid in the film.
Inherent Vice
This relates to materials that degrade due to an item's chemical composition. The longevity of photographs and film has much to do with the quality of the film and processing paper.
Biological Dangers
These come in the form of mold, insects, birds, rodents, and household pets. Pets, insects, and the like are apt to chew or eat the paper base of photographs.
Improper Care and Handling
Debris from hands or other sources can scratch film and photograph surfaces. Oils from hands can leave permanent marks on the image. Bending or folding photographs will crack the emulsion on pictures. Ink from pens and adhesive from labels can bleed through.
Pointers
Light
Only display images for a short period of time. Years of continuous display can lead to fading. Avoid displaying in direct sunlight.
Temperature and Relative Humidity (RH)
Store black and white photographs and film at less than 75° F and between 25% and 50% RH. Color photos and films can be stored between 35° F and 45° F and 25% and 30% RH. As these temperatures may be difficult to maintain in the home, try to keep film and photographs in the coolest environment possible.
Know your collection's make up
Identify what kind of film and film processing was used to make your photographs and movies, as this will determine their care and handling. If you have nitrate film or negatives, remove them from living areas and find a conservator who works with this kind of film, as it is highly flammable.
Protect against biological hazards
Do not store your items in damp basements or places exposed to the elements, like garages or open attics. Check area regularly for insect and rodent infestation.
Proper Care and Handling
When handling photographs or film, use cotton gloves or hold it by the edges. Make captions for photographs using a soft lead pencil. If you must use pen, use a permanent marker and write in an area where possible bleed-though will cause minimal damage. Display photographs behind ultraviolet glass or Plexiglas®, and do not display photographs for a long period of time. You may want to use copies for long term display instead. Copies are also a good idea for films you would like to show, as the original can get scratched with use.
Have a plan
Disasters
Despite efforts to preserve your collection under the best possible conditions, disasters can happen. It is best to keep your photographs and film in a room with a sprinkler system or other fire suppression. Wet is much better than burnt.
In case of flooding or water damage, consult a conservator immediately. The longer photographs and film remains wet the worse the damage. Remove photographs from glass frames, only if the image is not stuck to the glass. Do not try to separate photographs that are stuck together. Allow water to drain off film and photographs. Do not touch the images of wet photographs. Air dry photographs flat, image side up.
For the next generation
If you have built a substantial collection over the years or have original or rare films and photographs, you may want to consider what will happen to them once you have gone. Inquire and find which family members or friends may be interested in keeping them.
You may want to decide to share your film and photographs with a wider audience and donate the collection to a library or historical society. Discuss your intentions to leave your collection with an institution prior to making provisions in your will.
Appraisals
The Foundation is unable to provide appraisals of the monetary value of materials offered as gifts, brought in for identification, or submitted for any other purpose. The Internal Revenue Service regards libraries and museums as interested parties in these matters and appraisals prepared by them are subject to question. Donors desiring appraisals must therefore acquire and pay a professional appraiser themselves; consult your tax advisor to determine whether the cost of an appraisal qualifies as a miscellaneous deduction.
Appraisals require an expert knowledge of prices that comes from observing the market closely and continually. Curators are not in the business of daily buying and selling, and are not necessarily conversant with prices on the current market. Accurate establishment of prices can be a complex procedure, requiring time-consuming searches of auction records and price guides not readily available in libraries, and appraisers must form extensive personal libraries to keep abreast of their field. Finally, an appraiser must be prepared to defend the appraisal in court.
Do I need an appraisal?
IRS regulations (Section 170(f)(8)) require that donors making gifts valued at $250 or more obtain written substantiation of their gift. This can be a receipt or a letter of acknowledgment, if it contains the following information:
Date of gift;
Description of property donated;
Statement declaring if the donor has received any gifts or benefits in return for the gift;
Description of gifts or benefits provided to the donor with a good faith estimate of their value.
The Foundation provides written substantiation of this kind to all donors regardless of the value of their gift.
The IRS requires that donors be able to document the value of their charitable donation if audited. However, a formal qualified appraisal is mandatory at tax filing time only in cases where the value of the gift exceeds $5,000. This qualified appraisal must include:
Description of the property and date of appraisal;
Statement of fair market value and basis of valuation;
Description of any restrictions placed on the use of the gift by the donor;
Statement that the appraisal was prepared for income tax purposes;
Qualifications of the appraiser;
Description of the fee arrangement between the donor and appraiser;
Signature and taxpayer identification number of appraiser.
Where can I obtain an appraisal?
American Society of Appraisers
P.O. Box 17265
Washington, DC 20041
1-703-478-2228
The American Society of Appraisers (ASA) can provide the names and contact information for appraisers in your area. The ASA database contains names of appraisers listed by city as well as by interest. There are appraisers who specifically specialize in medical history, medical instruments, rare books, and similar artifacts. Lists can be obtained over the phone or on their website.
Appraisals can be expensive. It is worthwhile to determine beforehand whether the value of an item merits the cost of the appraisal. Every qualified appraiser should be willing to take a preliminary look at any items in question, and provide a detailed estimate of the appraisal cost along with a general indication of the item's value. Providing the appraiser with photographs at this point would be helpful.
Conservation is the act of preserving for the future an artifact as it appears today. It is undertaken by a professional trained in the chemical and physical make-up of objects. This training allows conservators to perform treatment without harming the piece. Conservation treatment can include cleaning, refinishing, in-painting, and a host of other methods to stabilize an item and to prevent further deterioration.
Conservation is often confused with two other terms:
Preservation is the act of creating the perfect environment for storage, display, or use that prevents damage to objects. Preservation can and should be undertaken by any collector interested in maintaining a collection in its present condition.
Restoration is the act of adding or subtracting elements of an object to make it appear as it did at an earlier time. Restoration requires the use of modern materials, or finding older elements to match what is already present, to create the illusion of another time period. Restorers are not necessarily qualified conservators, but many are.
How does conservation affect value?
In general, conservation does not devalue a piece because it purposely avoids adding or subtracting anything that does not inherently belong to an artifact. Instead it makes the current object more stable. In many instances, conservation treatment enhances the value of a piece as it ensures the object's longevity.
By contrast, restoration often devalues an artifact. Many antique dealers are interested in seeing an item's history, its evolution through time. Today's antiques were often altered by previous owners to look different or perform new functions, changes that were not part of their original manufacture. This alteration itself can be an interesting addition to a piece and elevates its value. If you wish to restore your item to its original or previous form, seek a qualified conservator to perform the work. Conservators who work in restoration are more likely to restore an object so that its value remains intact.
Where can I find a conservator?
American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works
1717 K Street, NW, Suite 200
Washington, DC 20006
1-202-452-9545
1-202-452-9328 (FAX)
http://aic.stanford.edu
The American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC) can provide useful information for anyone seeking a qualified conservator. AIC's "Guide to Conservation Services" can be obtained by contacting them directly via telephone or fax. The booklet lists the names of conservators by city as well as by interest. Be sure to ask for a list of conservators specializing in the type of object you have.
AIC will also provide you with "Guidelines for Selecting a Conservator". These guidelines tell you what questions to ask and how to obtain an estimate you can understand. The "Guidelines" can be found on their website as well as by calling the Institute.
Find an ENT
About Otolaryngology
Otolaryngology (pronounced oh/toe/lair/in/goll/oh/jee) is the oldest medical specialty in the United States. Otolaryngologists are commonly referred to as ENT physicians.
ENT History
| 1546 | Account published of first documented successful tracheotomy |
| 1806 | Dutrochet introduces concept of vocal cord movement |
| 1898 | Carbon-type hearing aid first produced |
| 1924 | Otolaryngology specialty board (second such board in U.S.) is formed |
| 1984 | FDA approves first cochlear implant for marketing |
| 1988 | First wearable digital signal processing hearing aid produced |
